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When compiling a list of London’s best eateries, one might foresee renowned high-end names. Yet, tucked high among these food titans is a modest salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This accolade has made the family totally astonished.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks a proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small shop securing such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.